CHAPTER 1:

CHANGING THE OIL

2. Straddle the machine and apply the front brake. Push downward on the handlebars, forcing the forks to compress as much as possible. Pull back on the bars, returning the forks to their normal position. Repeat this pumping action several times until all the oil is expelled from both forks.

3. Check the condition of the fiber gasket washers. If either of them is damaged or distorted, replace it. Thread the drain screws back into the fork legs, being careful not to over tighten them.

4. Prop the motorcycle so that the front wheel is off the ground. With a 6 point 25 mm socket remove the stanchion nuts from the top of the fork tubes. (Fig. 155)

NOTE: If the front wheel is not off the ground, remove only one stanchion nut at a time. If they both are removed, the front of the cycle will drop all the way down as there will be nothing to hold the springs in place.

5. Pour 190 to 200 cc's of Full Bore SAE 80 racing gearbox oil, or SAE 30 wt. motor oil into each fork.

NOTE: The above oils are for temperatures ranging from +300 F to +900 F. The

dampening of the forks will be noticeably affected above or below these temperatures. The proper dampening characteristics within these temperatures can also be dictated by track or riding conditions. For these reasons a heavier or lighter grade oil may be used to suit temperature or riding requirements.

6. On the bottom of each stanchion plug there is a 12 mm nut which houses a check ball and retains a check ball spring. Remove the nut, being careful not to lose the small ball which seats in the inside of the nut. Remove